FAQ

Frequently asked questions

Answers to our most frequently asked questions are posted here. For solutions to other questions you may have, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

Yes. Despite their incredible sturdiness, it won’t be difficult moving your shed to a different site. Smaller structures can be moved intact. Larger buildings, being modular structures, would need to be partially disassembled and reassembled at the new site. Give us a call if you’re ready for relocation.

Yes. Among the options you could add later are skylights, venting systems, awnings, windows, doors and mezzanine floors. We’ll always be happy to work with you to get your building completed to suit your needs. Call us for advice on all the available options.

Yes. Using portal frames, our sheds can have additional portal bays added later. It’s a relatively simple procedure. Call us to discuss your options.

A portal frame is a structural frame, typically a beam (or rafter) supported at either end by columns. Rigid joins (usually brackets) between beam and columns help the columns absorb forces that might otherwise cause the beam to bend. This allows for the beam to be smaller in sectional size and to span greater distances. Lateral stability for a row of parallel frames is done by bracing between the frames in an end bay or intermediary bay.

In non-cyclonic locations, shed spans can go to 30 metres. In cyclonic areas, depending on design criteria, up to 24 metres. Larger clear spans are possible in specialised buildings. The further the span, the bigger the portal frame.
The gable end of the shed is its end wall (either end), at which the highest point of the roof pitch is seen.
The length of the building is the distance from one gable end to the other, measured from the outside edges of the end girts.
The shed span is the overall width of the building, measured at the gable end, from outside of side girts or inside of wall sheeting.
The bay is the distance from the centre of one portal to the next. A 9-metre long building would have 3 bays at 3 metres each.
The height is measured from the base of the column to the top of the eave purlin. A skillion roof, being a sloping roof with a single pitch, has a high-side height and low-side height.
Barn height often refers to two measurements—the height of the inner wall, and the height of the outer wall. The inner wall is the main body (tower) of a barn. The outer walls are its enclosed awnings.
Roof pitch is the angle a roof falls from its ridge to its gutter. Gable roofs (e.g. 10°, 15°, 20°, 25° and 30°) slope more steeply than skillion roofs.
Pitch of the tower of a barn can be different to that of its awnings. The tower can have a gable or skillion roof. The awning pitches may be symmetrical, or dissimilar if required.

STEEL WATER TANKS

The quality of the stored water in the Bluescope Aquaplate tanks that we supply, will leave you in no doubt. Internally lined with food grade polymer film, these tanks come with a 20-year guarantee. Looking at affordable alternatives, our tanks aren’t at the mercy of lime leeching, as concrete tanks are known for. Our steel water tanks remain impervious too when temperatures hit the 40s and chemical breakdown becomes a worry for poly tanks. In the event of bushfires, you can say goodbye to poly tanks altogether.

Please call for more information about a quality water tank for your needs.

RAISED GARDEN BEDS

Pretty much anything you like. Vegetables, herbs and flowers will grow well in a raised bed, as will bulbs, shrubs and trees.
Raised beds need more water than the surrounding soil. That’s because their drainage is good and they generally have better soil too. Raised beds lend themselves perfectly to drip irrigation and soaker hoses. They offer ease of access for you but more restricted access for other critters. Raised beds also look neat and better yields can be harvested from them.
So you can reach into the bed from both sides, a width of 120cm is good. If access is one-sided, 90cm is recommended. Length is best determined by convenience. It’s not convenient walking around a very long garden bed. Aisles between beds should be at least 90cm wide so you can use your wheelbarrow.
If you build your bed to the proper height, you won’t need to till down into the soil below the bed itself. The higher the bed, the less you’ll need to stoop while gardening. Initially, however your raised bed requires more soil. For sitting or wheelchair gardeners, raised beds should be around 60cm in height, at least.
Use the best soil you can get. Mix compost with the soil in the raised bed. Potting mixes from your local landscape supplier work well. It can be bought by the truckload and delivered.
For best results, mix your new, rich soil in with the site’s existing soil to avoid an abrupt change from one to the other. Remove any existing grass, till and level the ground at your raised bed location, then incorporate compost and organic matter into the ground soil before topping off with new soil. If your new raised bed will be higher than 30cm, you can simply load the new soil on top of the grass, but not before lining the bottom of the bed with weed matting to prevent weeds.
Tuck flexible PVC pipe or bamboo into the side of a raised bed and bend it to form a frame for shade cloths, frost cloths, or bird netting.
Please contact us for further information about the best raised garden beds for your needs.
Close Menu